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Shadow Embroidery
Instructions - Illustrated
lessons
Complete illustrated instructions on learning this lovely, delicate craft as
well as a beginner's project are featured on this page. Enjoy!
Photo (A)
Photo (B)
Shadow embroidery was developed as a Whitework
technique. A revival of this dainty stitch on dress accessories, infant’s
clothes, lingerie and household linens creates a delicate trim.
The stitch is worked on sheer, transparent or
firmly woven fabrics. Select organdy, voile, batiste, fine linen or muslin,
sheer silk or a synthetic for the ground fabric. Shadow stitch motifs may be
worked on ready-made clothing too.
Work double back stitch (Fig. 1) on right side
of fabric. This forms a close herringbone stitch (Fig. 1) on wrong or reverse
side of fabric. These stitches produce the shadow effect (Photos A and B above).
When stitches are worked close together, a
solid shadow appears through right side of fabric. Back stitch holes are shared
and create a continuous out-
line (Fig. 1). If stitches are not placed
close together, a "lacy" shadow effect appears on right side with a
distinct outline of tiny, separate stitches following design.
For fine detailing use one ply of embroidery floss with number
7 or finer crewel needle with a hoop or frame. Silk and cotton embroidery yarns
make best shadow effects. Additional plys will make colors stronger. Stems are
worked on right side of fabric in very fine back or chain stitches (Fig. 2).
Flower centers are worked in French knot clusters (Fig. 3) on
right side of design. Petals and leaves are filled in
with shadow stitch. Subtle effects occur when white floss is
used on white fabrics. Thread may be matched to background color. Greens may be
used for stems and leaves while flower petals may be stitched in colors. Shadow
embroidery works best on designs where petals and leaves do not overlap. Block
letters for monograms adapt to shadow stitch. Parallel lines in design aid in
structuring shadow effect. Check transfer patterns or sketch your own designs.
Choose a design, transfer to wrong side of sheer material and try shadow
embroidery!
Make a MINI PILLOW with shadow
embroidery.
To make a mini-pillow you will need two 9 inch
squares of sheer fabric, daisy design below, embroidery hoop, embroidery floss,
number 7 or finer crewel needle, dressmaker’s carbon paper or hot iron
transfer pencil, one yard ruffled lace or eyelet edging, matching thread, plain
muslin and small amount polyester fiberfill.
Using hot iron transfer pencil or dressmaker’s carbon paper,
transfer design to center of wrong side of pillow top.
With fabric in embroidery hoop, wrong
side facing, work petals in shadow stitch using 1 to 3 plies
matching embroidery floss. Use close herringbone stitch with
fine stitches sharing holes as stitches outline petals. On
right side work flower center in French knots.
Press finished work with right side
on terry towel.
Stitch ruffled lace or eyelet edging
around perimeter of pillow top. Using 1/2 inch seam, stitch pillow top and
bottom together. Be sure to include raw edge of ruffling and
leave one side open for pillow filler. Trim seams and
corners. Turn right side out. Press.
Make small pillow filler of plain muslin. Stuff with
polyester fiberfill. Place inside embroidered pillow. A small sachet of
potpourri may be put inside filler pillow. Close open edges with fine hemming
stitches.
Think small to large. Iron or press smaller details such as pockets, collars, belts, etc. first.
Then move to larger areas.
Use your iron sparingly when touching up wrinkles on pockets, cuffs,
collars and other details of your garment.
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