Free Tatting Instructions (continued)

Free Tatting Instructions (continued)
Free Tatting Instructions (continued)

 

Free Tatting Instructions (continued)

Rings and Picots

The dainty effect of tatting depends on the lacy loops called picots (ps). A picot is the first half of a double, but instead of being drawn close up against the preceding stitch (Fig. 6); it is held by the thumb on the shuttle thread at a distance of about a quarter inch from the preceding stitch; complete the double draw shuttle thread, this way the doubles will meet and a picot loop is formed on the ring (Fig 7). The double made in forming the picot is considered part of the next group of doubles.

 

Practice doubles and picots until you can make them readily. Then make a ring. Remember to keep thread on the back of shuttle for ease in working. Work 3 ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds. Hold stitches firmly in the left hand under thumb and forefinger, after last double is completed, draw the shuttle thread gently until ring is completely closed and the last double made touches the first double of ring (Fig. 8). For larger picots, leave a larger space (sp) between doubles.

Joining Rings

* About 1/4 inch from ring just made, begin a new ring. Make 3 ds, then join this ring to the preceding ring. Hold work close to picot and with the "pick" of shuttle (pin or crochet hook), draw ring thread up through last picot of preceding ring (Fig. 9), making a loop large enough to insert shuttle;

slip the shuttle through the loop and pull shuttle thread taut to the right, draw ring back out of picot with fingers on left hand, make second half of double. Be sure to hold shuttle thread taut or a square knot will develop when second half is made and it will not slip. Now work 3 more ds, p, 3 ds, p, 3 ds and draw up to form a second ring. Continue from * for desired length.

To reverse work, turn your work so that the base of ring just made is at the top and work next ring as usual.

To Join Threads-Always join new thread at the base of last ring or chain by making a square knot and leaving the ends until work is finished as the strain may loosen the knot. Cut ends later leaving them long enough so that they will not pull loose. Never join a new thread in ring as the knots will not pass through the double stitch.

Chains: A shuttle and a ball thread are used to make a chain (ch). It is necessary to use both working threads (a shuttle thread and a ball thread) when rs and chs appear in the same design. To make a ch after a r, reverse work (rw); to do this turn ring over so point where the shuttle thread comes out of ring is at top between thumb and forefinger. Tie end of ball thread in square knot to shuttle thread very close to base of ring. Hold the ball thread across back of fingers of left hand, wind it twice around little finger to control tension (Fig 10), and hold free end of ball thread between forefinger and thumb of left hand.

Make a series of ds with shuttle on ball thread. When ch is completed, draw sts close together and drop ball thread. Rw and pick up shuttle thread to make another r.

Tatting Abbreviations:

R = ring; st = stitch; ch = chain "a series of sts worked on the ball thread and are not drawn into a ring"; ds = double stitch; p = picot; cl r = close ring "draw shuttle thread until last stitch made touches first stitch, forming a r; rw = reverse work "Turn work over so that the lower edge of work lies at the top"; sp = space; sm p = small picot; lg p = long picot; sm r = small ring; lg r = large ring; sep = separated "the number of picots in a ring is sometimes given, together with the number of double by which they are separated"; * = asterisk - repeat the directions following the asterisk as many times as specified, in addition to the original.

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